词汇 | bouillabaisse |
词源 | bouillabaisse. A French invention made of fish and shell- fish, bouillabaisse derives from Provençal words meaning “boil it, then lower the heat.” It has a worldwide reputation. In Greece it is called psaro, in Italy it is zuppa di pesce, and in Bel- gium it’s Ghentsche waterzoaie. In his Gastronomy of France chef Raymond Oliver tells the legend of the spurned lover who invented rouille, the hot pimento sauce that makes bouilla- baisse so passionate a potage. This poor sailor sat on the Mar- tigues quay, sadly watching his perfidious beloved sail off with a rich Greek shipowner (they’ve always been around) when she added humiliation to heartbreak by tossing him the liver of a racasse, or scorpion fish, that the yacht’s cook had been cleaning on deck. “There, that’s for you!” she cried scornfully. But the sailor treasured even the scraps from her hands, and crushing the liver with garlic and oil, he cooked it with pimen- to and—marvelous to relate—from the moment he first tasted it he found all women lovely. “As rouille increases bouilla- baisse’s erotic proportion a hundredfold,” Oliver concludes, “the perfidious girl was forgotten on the spot. Once more, a fairy tale with a happy ending.” |
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