词汇 | duxelles sauce |
词源 | duxelles sauce. A duxelles today is a purée of mushrooms and onions, the tasty sauce once made from a much more elab- orate recipe. It was named for the marquis d’Uxelles, employer of the too often ignored chef François Pierre de la Varenne. Varenne’s Le Cuisinier Français (1651) is a landmark of French cuisine, and his rare pastry book Le Patissier Français has been called the most expensive cookbook in the world. The chef is said to have been trained by those Florentine cooks brought to France by Marie de’ Medici, second wife of Henry IV. It is often claimed that these Italians taught the French the art of cooking, but Varenne’s cuisine was much more delicate and imaginative than that of his masters; and if anyone can be called the found- er of classical French cuisine he deserves the honor. Varenne did not name the duxelles after his employer; this was done at a later date when it became customary to honor a man’s name in a recipe. |
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