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词汇 brillat-savarin
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Brillat-Savarin. “The destiny of nations depends on the manner wherein they take their food.” “A dessert course with- out cheese is like a beautiful woman with one eye.” “Animals feed: man eats; only a man of wit knows how to dine.” An- thelme Brillat-Savarin, author of these and many other well- known aphorisms on la cuisine, was 70 when he published his Physiologie du goût (Physiology of Taste) in 1825, his celebrated book 30 years in the making. He was to die the following year but not before he had given the world the most trenchant dis- cussion of food and its effects on trenchermen ever written. The greatest of French bon vivants had been born, appropriate- ly enough, in the town of Belley—“Belley is its name and Belley is its nature,” someone wrote over a century later. He became the town’s mayor after the French Revolution but had to emigrate to America during the Reign of Terror, living in Con- necticut for a few years. Portly and gregarious, the sage of Bel- ley remained a bachelor all his life—perhaps too devoted to food and women ever to marry, possibly because he loved his cousin, the society beauty Madame Récamier. A lawyer who wrote on political economy and law, and penned a few licen- tious tales as well, he is remembered above all for his bible of gastronomy. “Tell me what you eat and I will tell you what you are,” he once declared. Though he was something of an eccentric—he often carried dead birds around in his pockets until they became “high” enough for cooking—Brillat-Savarin’s reputation has not suffered for his eccentricities, his name long synonymous with supreme authority on cooking. The greatest of gourmets also has the savarin, a yeast cake soaked in a rum- or kirsch-flavored syrup, named for him, and there are count- less restaurants and a brand of coffee using the last half of his hyphenated name, as well as two classic garnishes, both made in part with truffles, the most extravagant of gourmet foods. Brillat was actually Anthelme’s real name—he took on the hyphen and Savarin when his great aunt left him her entire fortune on the condition that he add her name to his, Mademoi- selle Savarin wanting a little immortality and getting more than she bargained for. Love of food, in fact, seemed to run in the Brillat family. Anthelme’s youngest sister, Pierrette, for instance, died at the dinner table. She was almost 100 and her last words are among the most unusual in history: “And now, girl, bring me the dessert.” Physiologie du goût, incidentally, had to be printed at the author’s expense. And when Brillat-Savarin’s brother later sold the rights to a publisher, he got only $120— after throwing in a genuine Stradivarius as well.
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更新时间:2024/9/21 13:23:41